Sometimes brewing is just in your blood. That certainly seems to be the case for Susquehanna Brewing Co. and its co-founder, Fred Maier. For six generations, Fred and his family have been an integral part of the beer-brewing industry, in both the Old World and the New.
As Fred tells it, “Susquehanna Brewing is actually the fourth brewery my family has owned. The family history is fairly confusing; it stems from two brewing families both on my father’s side. My great-great-great grandfather, Charles Stegmaier, emigrated from Germany in 1849. He brought along with him the relatively new (to America) knowledge of lager brewing.”
According to Fred, when Charles landed in New York City looking for a job, “he was basically told that there was no lager there and to try Philadelphia. He went to Philly and by 1851, he had ended up in Northeastern Pennsylvania, where my family still lives. He bought out a local competitor in 1896 and renamed it Susquehanna Brewing Co. in 1897.”
That original Susquehanna Brewing Co. lasted until 1919. At that time, the family also owned Baer & Stegmaier Brewing Co. (founded in 1857), as well as Maier Brewing Co. in Los Angeles (purchased circa 1875). The family re-founded Susquehanna Brewing Co. in 2010, and the rest, as they say, is history.
So how does the past play a part in the now, and also in the future, for Susquehanna Brewing Co.? One example is the brewing operations. “The biggest influence on our choice of equipment really comes from our past,” Fred says. “In 1947, Stegmaier was one of the largest and most advanced breweries in the country at 850,000 barrels. Unfortunately, like many breweries at the time, the beer was becoming industrialized. Quality came after marketing, and there wasn’t a ton of respect for the consumer.
“It put some bad beer out and the volume crashed to 300,000 barrels in a short period, Fred adds. “It sounds like a lot in today’s volume, but it crushed the brewery’s economy of scale. By the time my dad, Edward Maier, started working at Stegmaier in the ‘60s, there was a lot of old antiquated equipment. It’s way before my time, but the polite way of describing the beer’s flavor was that it “displayed house characteristics.” When we decided to get back into the business, my dad’s goal was to brew whatever we wanted with the utmost quality.”
Even with generations of success and experience under its belt, Susquehanna Brewing Co. still works hard to remain competitive in today’s craft brewing market. “We have the same issues as everyone else: fighting for relevance,” Fred adds. “When we started the planning phase there were 1,500 breweries. But, by the time we were actually selling beer, there were almost 2,500; it’s now up to 7,500. I personally think it’s great for the industry, but it has its challenges. I remember shaking the couch cushions in college to buy a six-pack of Hop Devil — it was a treat. Now, craft beer occupies a majority of the shelf space and tap handles. People coming of drinking age today see craft beer as equal to large corporate breweries.”
Despite challenges, Fred still loves the process and the industry. “I love our tasting room. I grew up delivering beer and doing route sales. People are fun. They’re what make this such an incredible industry. I love Gussie Busch’s saying: ‘Making friends is our business.’ Everyone has their own opinion on beer, and it’s always fun to see where the conversation may go.”
Regarding advice for new breweries, and those intending to open a brewery, Fred says, “A tasting room is an absolute must. It’s your ultimate salesperson. No one cares about your beer like you do. It lets you present your products in the perfect environment. It also lets you experiment and become a part of your community… and the money isn’t bad, either.”
Given that brews are the backbone of Susquehanna Brewing Co. and Fred’s interesting family history, what are his favorites? He answers, “From my point of view, there’s a perfect beer for any occasion. I can appreciate just about every style. If I had to pick one, I will admit I’m a sucker for the classics. I love a crisp Helles or Pilsner. Those styles really highlight the entire process for me. From the choice of ingredients, to the brewer’s skill and even the right equipment, everything has a significant impact on the final result.
“There’s just no hiding flaws. That’s really what I love most about beer in general, though. It’s as much about the process as it is about the ingredients.”
The Brewers of Pennsylvania is a nonprofit trade association that brings together leaders of Pennsylvania-based breweries in order to promote and protect the brewing industry in the state. Established in 2011, the Brewers of Pennsylvania serves the consuming public of Pennsylvania by encouraging brand diversity in the market. We believe in the nobility of brewing and hold dear the great traditions and history of Pennsylvania brewing.
Photos: A. Pickett Construction Inc.
